Tuesday, 28 May 2013

White-water thrills!

Walked the streets of Arequipa, looking for a new SD card for one of the cameras as memory card already full.
Feeling a little flat today. Decided to take it easy this morning and continue to adjust to the altitude.
Hotel has a rooftop terrace with great views of the three mountains surrounding Arequipa - Chachani, El Misti and Pichu Pichu - all of them around 6000m. Hard to believe that they are 3/4 height of Everest. All are still snow capped. Gorgeous vista.
El Misti

Chachani
Camerons had booked some white water rafting so we decided to tag along. Both of us a little apprehensive as neither of us had rafted before. Picked up from hotel (minus Barb) who had succumbed to the curse of traveller's "you know what".
The Rio Chili runs through the city with its source in the mountains (near Chachani i think). The drive up to the starting point had great views of the fertile valley below with numerous market gardens, being irrigated by the river. Looked like a patchwork quilt. 
I was very nervous whilst listening to the safety briefing, but there was no looking back now. 
Jenny and I carried the paddles and the lads carried the boat down to the river and after a final safety check by Martins, our "El Capitano", we were off. Most of the 6km river run was Class 1-3 rapids, but there was a section of Class 4 rapids towards the end. We followed our instructions diligently and were the best crew out there by far. It was much easier that I anticipated and a lot of fun. We even had the opportunity to stop and jump off one of the rock ledges overlooking the river. It was probably only 7 metres high, but even I had a go, despite my fear of heights. 
One of the kayakers also took photos, so we have a great lasting memory of our first rafting experience. Both Jack and I agreed, it won't be our last!

The safety briefing
Off we go!
Is that a look of fun?
Or fear?
Trying to conquer my fear of heights!
Yay Team!

The exertion of paddling, a belly full of water swallowed after my rock ledge jump, combined with the altitude left me extremely tired afterwards. I had already been feeling lethargic. I warned Jack before dinner that I might not be a good dinner companion. I was feeling very flat and by the end of dinner was nauseous. As soon as we got back to the hotel, it was my turn to experience the Traveller's Curse. Hopefully it would pass quickly.......

Arequipa - let the altitude training begin!

Woke at 5am for a 5.30 pick- up to the airport
Dozed on the plane and then woke just before the descent to look out the window to a magnificent vista of desert mountains and deep canyons with innumerable dry rios. 
Breathtaking view from above
Arequipa (2,380m) is the second largest city in Peru. Located in a beautiful valley at the foot of three snow-capped peaks including "El-Misti" Volcano, it is also known as the White City because it is constructed largely from white volcanic material/rock.
Population of 850,000. Nowhere near as chaotic as Lima. Has a nice relaxed feel to it. 
Afternoon was spent exploring the Santa Catalina Convent, which is really a city within a city. Founded in 1579, less than 40 years after the Spanish arrived in Arequipa, there is a mixture of colonial Spanish and native architectural styles and has been restored several times after sustaining earthquake damage. We had a very informative guide who gave a detailed description of convent life for the nuns. There are still 24 nuns that live at the convent ages ranging from 18 - 100. Stunning views from the rooftops and an impressive collection of paintings in the gallery and the cloistered courtyards, most from local artists, but some from the Cuzco School of Art. Superb example of preservation of cultural heritage.




On the Gringo Trail Amigos!




Another Happy Hour with Pisco sours and Mojitos for me, slightly tipsy!
Then headed to one of Arequipa's best restaurants Chicha's for dinner. Jack had an alpaca hamburger! and Simon had one of Arequipa's specialty dishes - Roccoto Relleno (hot and spicy stuffed peppers).
Altitude noticeable when climbing stairs with some breathlessness and heart pounding, but no other untoward effects as yet. Need to adjust and slow down to about half normal walking pace to compensate.
Only downside for the day - lost my mobile phone somewhere in Lima Airport during check-in, our tour guide is on the look out for it - not very hopeful of recovering it though. Boohoo!

Lima sights!

Arrived in Lima at 1 am Santiago time. 2 hours behind in Lima, so it was 1100 pm. Cleared customs ok, but our luggage was nowhere to be found. Had to speak to the information desk and then airline staff who eventually located it. Not sure where it was or why it wasnt on the carousel, but thank goodness it hadn't gone elsewhere. Another smooth transfer with driver and tour guide. Tour guide very helpful and suggesting some ideas for sightseeing tomorrow. 30 min trip to hotel. By the time we checked in and got to bed it was 3 am Santiago time or 1 am Lima time.
Up for breakfast by 9.20. Discovered the Camerons had been booked into a different hotel. We decided to walk to Huaca Pucllana, about 15 mins from our hotel. This is a historic archeological site which continues to be excavated to this day. It is a ceremonial site which dates back to 400AD involving the Lima and Wari cultures. An adobe pyramid dominates the site and was constructed in a bookshelf pattern which has resulted in it resisting damage from earthquakes. We toured the site which used to be a dirt bike motorcycle track until excavations commenced in 1981. Definitely the oldest ruins that we've ever seen.



Pre and post-excavation

Still a lot of excavating to do!


While waiting for our lunch companions we sipped on pisco sours at a restaurant which overlooks the site.

We spent the afternoon at the Museo Larco which houses Peru's largest collection of pre-Columbian artefacts. Amazing textiles, jewellery and ceramics, particularly from the Moche era. One of the best museums I've visited.






The X-rated Moche collection is housed in a separate wing of the museum


Sunset drinks at Barranco on the coast and then a light dinner back at Miraflores. 

Hola Santiago!

Went to bed last night at 8 pm, woke several times. Very dehydrated, drinking lots of water which is very unusual for me. A little traffic noise from the street. Eventually woke at 8.20am with the morning sunrise. yes, that's right. 8.20 sunrise! 
Had breakfast and then set off on the city hop on -  hop off turistik bus. Stop 3 very close to our hotel. $40per ticket. Always a nice way to see the city especially from the top deck of a double decker bus. Felt like we were back on the e-e3 bus as simon and jenny reserved the front seat for Jack. 
Stopped at the "burnside village" of santiago, but shopping malls are the same the whole world over. Interesting to compare prices though. Went into a Merrells shop and the hiking shoes were similar prices, not much cheaper than sale prices at home. left them on the shelf. they did have a Starbucks there and I managed to order a coffee, cheesecake and panini. Boarded the bus again and got off at Bellavista. This is a arty bohemian enclave of Santiago. Trendy cafes and shops. Walked around the backstreets - beautiful spanish - influenced architecture, brightly coloured painted dwellings with decorative and ornate wrought iron window grilles. splashes of bright colours-yellows, greens, purples, all the colours of the rainbow. Liquid refreshments to quench the thirst at a bar, gin alexander for me. Nice warm weather again today, 25c.


Back on the bus, next stop - museum of fine arts. entry $1.20. Magnificent domed hall surrounded by marble sculptures by local artists. Exhibition by Finnish artist Kaarina ? - displaying rows of mens and womens shirts suspended from the ceiling of the Grand Hall. Most of the artwork not to my liking, except for 1 beautiful piece depicting a snow or ice covered mountain range with 2 rainbows in the foreground. A mesmerizing piece of work.


Waiting for the next bus, we practiced our Spanish comparing phrases from Simon's Spanish book and our Latin American phrase book. I think ours is a little more accurate for the local gringo lingo. Back at the hotel to check out, trying to use the wi-fi to blog. Busy traffic during the peak hour. Chilean working hours are generally 8.30-6.15 with 1 hour for lunch for businesses. Factory workers work from 5.30-5.30. Mostly flat terrain in the metro area means that cycling is ideal, though many still drive cars or use buses or the subway trains. The main thoroughfares are tree-lined, with numerous monuments and statues, approx 800 in total in Santiago. 
Nestled on a valley between the Andes and another smaller range. These mountains are shrouded in a haze of dust and pollution, but even in autumn, there is snow evident on a couple of the high peaks. Most of the peaks surrounding Santiago are approx. 2000m. Santiago was named after the apostle, James. Roman Catholicism was the official religion until the 1900's.
First scare of the trip- inadvertantly left my purse in the public toilets at the airport departure lounge. Realised after 5 mins, returned to found it gone. Panicking, I started to look in other cubicles when a young woman asked if I had left a cell phone behind. When I replied yes, she said she had found it and handed it in to security. What a stroke of luck!  I thanked her profusely.
Luckily, it was only my phone and a purse with a few non- essential items. All my money and passport being carried on my person in a money belt! 
Now en-route to Peru, with an evening flight to Lima, due to arrive 2310. Adios Chile, Hola Peru!

Day 1 - Up, Off and Away!

Up early for 7am departure from Adelaide - Sydney. 
Trouble checking in as Qantas couldn't find the international connection for me. After fifteen minutes and several phone calls to Qantas admin, finally sorted.
Very pleased with myself with checked in backpack weighing only 8.1kg. Met Jenny and Barb at Sydney International airport.
Smooth transfer for Sydney -Santiago sector. Flight 12 hours duration and with crossing the international dateline, you gain a day and arrive at the same time on the same day you depart!
Managed to snatch a few hours sleep. No problems with customs and immigration and met by our driver for the hotel transfer. Smog prevented a clear view, however the majestic Andes mountain range was still an awe-inspiring sight. Santiago, the capital of Chile is home to about 7 million people, about 40% of the total population. The metropolis is a mix of old and new architecture.  To reduce the effect of jetlag, we spent the afternoon walking and exploring the city centre, taking in a few sights including the Plaza De Armas.




Finished off the day with happy hour drinks at Bellavista sipping on the local favourite, a pisco sour.

Let's Hit the Gringo Trail, Amigos!

Initially this trip was to be in 12 months time.
Then we heard on the grapevine that some friends were planning to trek in Patagonia and then spend sometime in Peru.
It was a great opportunity to share the experience and so plans were hatched.
Not one to rush around and try to see everything in one trip, and with time constraints, the decision was made to choose a few areas and spend a decent amount of time exploring and enjoying each one
35 days - most of it in 3 areas of Peru - Arequipa and the Colca Canyon, Puno and Lake Titicaca, and Cuzco and the Sacred Valley, including Machu Picchu
Nazca, Iquitos, the Cordillera Blanca and Iguazu Falls did not make the cut, this time
I think that there will be a next time, just not sure when....

Darkest Peru - Paddington Bear and Other Things

I am only a few days away from leaving on a trip that I have been dreaming of for many years
As I was contemplating the trip a few days ago, I remembered my first memory of Peru - from my childhood when I used to read the adventures of Paddington Bear. He was from a place called "Darkest Peru" and as a child, South America seemed an exotic place.
And even today, it still does.
I feel like a girl, about to embark on a GAP year holiday....never mind the fact that it is only a five week trip, and that I'm about 30 years older. The backpack is packed, and thanks to my ultralight camping friends, it weighs only 8kg!!
I'm not sure whether I have room for Paddington Bear.....