Sunday 21 July 2013

The Lares Valley - day 1

Poor night´s sleep, up at 4.30am. Breakfast at 5.
Both of us still feeling less than average.
Picked up by the trek company and on the road by 5.45.
We warned the guide and the driver that we were not feeling 100% and asked for the drive to be slower than usual. Traffic was light at that hour of the morning and we headed up the familiar road back towards Calca in the Sacred Valley
At Calca, we stopped for a toilet break and to pick up the reminder of the entourage. 
I needed some fresh air so we walked around the local market for 15 mins, then it was back in the car to head towards Lares.
The road for about 50% of the journey was sealed, but a typical peruvian mountain road with lots of switchbacks. As we ascended, the landscape changed back again to alpine.
We had a brief break at a high pass at 4,461m for a photo stop and then back into the car for the descent down to Lares.

 

Breathtaking vista - one of my favourite photos of the trip!

 I was feeling nauseated, but about 15 mins out of Lares, Jack had to stop the car and get out. (And yes, he was then sick!) We had a break for about 20 mins while he tried to compose himself and our guide tried various remedies to help him feel better - natural mint leaves found by the roadside crushed in his hands and then inhaled, and he also brought out a bottle of 70% alcohol for him to inhale.
Knowing we were not far from our destination, we got back into the car and continued down into the Lares Valley and about 20 mins later arrrived at the Lares hot springs on the outskirts of the town. Jack was still not feeling well so he rested and napped on the lawns, while I has a dip in the hot springs. I soaked in the medium temperature pool for about 30mins and then also had a short nap in the sun, before lunch was served to us.
The Lares Hot Springs
Tables and chairs were brought out, tablecloth and napkins. A soup, followed by a beautiful avocado salad
freshly prepared by the chef. I tried to eat as much as I could but only managed about half. Jack felt a little bit better by now. We has some coco mate (tea) and also some camomile tea to try and settle our stomachs.
The springs were our departure point for our trek up the valley and we left at 1220. Carlos our guide was mindful of how poorly we were feeling and led us off at a nice slow peruvian plod pace, stopping every 15-20 mins to drink and take in the views. We followed a river for most of the afternoon heading steadily uphill towards the town of Huacahusi.

 

 

 

The afternoon was cool and cloudy and after about 90 mins the clouds looked threatening. It started to drizzle and it continued to become heavier over the next 30 mins, eventually becoming quite a soaking rain.
The nausea, altitude and exertion was all catching up with me, and when Carlos said there was another 30 mins till camp, I reluctantly agreed to finish the afternoon on horseback. After all, the horse wasn't there for a lazy afternoon of sightseeing! I felt like a queen riding through town on horseback led by the able horseman, Santiago.
We arrived at camp at 3.45, ahead of schedule.The campsite was sited on the edge of a local farmer´s property. We and Carlos had tents, while the entourage set up camp in one of the outbuildings.  I was exhausted and almost collapsed into the tent. I decided to have a nap before dinner, and then it happened.
Nausea, then vomiting, then diarrhoea. And so it continued for the next 3 hours. I managed to only eat half a bowl of soup for dinner, and plied myself with drugs.
Meanwhile Carlos was trying to workout whether to cancel the next days walk or not.
Early to bed, I managed to sleep most of the night, woken several times by the sound of light rain on the tent.
What will tomorrrow bring?











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