The Path Less Travelled - Madang

Snorkel, swim, cocktails, feast - repeat.......!!!

OK, if I must.....

Wonderful lazy days on the north east coast of PNG.

I think the photos speak for themselves....

(Oops, I forgot sunburn, moisturiser and tan lines)

The Path Less Travelled - Shaggy Ridge - Aginau - Onge - Lae

Day 9: Aginau Village to Lae

We greet the dawn, pack up camp and are walking by 7am!

I hike back to Onge filled with mixed emotions and I reflect on a myriad of vivid flashbacks...

Leeches, fireflies, saturated hiking boots, sticky sweaty bodies, pure pristine mountain streams, moss dangling from dense jungle, wading through cascading creeks, birdcalls echoing under rainforest canopy, highland vistas, the pitter-patter of big, fat tropical raindrops falling on the tent roof,
a razorback ridge top to die for!

We reach Onge by mid-morning and bid farewell to our porters and carriers.
Heading along the Highlands Highway back to Lae, I have my last "press my nose against the glass" moments as I watch the Finisterre Ranges fade into the distance.
We arrive in Lae mid afternoon, and the prospect of a hot shower is too good to refuse....but first, the gong for Best Shaggy Beard must be awarded. I took my judging duties very seriously and after much deliberation, the honour was bestowed upon Tim.

I may have scrubbed away a week's worth of dirt, sweat and grime, but the memories will last a lifetime.
"You'll never forget Shaggy Ridge" - S H O'Leary

We celebrate over dinner for the last time together, some heading home, some to Madang - that's where I'm heading for a bit of r&r PNG style!

Post Script:
I followed my heart and fulfilled a massive personal challenge with a great sense of achievement. Shaggy Ridge was an amazing adventure and a journey of self-discovery on the path less travelled.

Note to self: "Take a walk on the wild side"

But wait, there's more.....
Thanks to my fellow trekkers for providing the photos - Julian Monfries, Simon Cameron, Peter Cooper and Katie Sarah.
Thanks also to the trek leaders and guides - Zac Zaharias and Reg Yates for a fantastic trip.
And more photos, thanks Zac!
I would highly recommend Peak Learning Adventures - check out their website at
http://peaklearningadventures.com.au/

The Path Less Travelled - Shaggy Ridge - Mouska - Aginau

Day 8 - Mouska - Aginau

A cloudless sky heralds the new day. The morning sunbeams illuminate the eastern flank of Shaggy Ridge. From our camp, I look up to where we were camped three nights ago on the southern end of the ridge top.
I spend a few moments in contemplative silence, absorbing the scene. The superlatives run through my mind - beautiful, breathtaking, wild, raw, magical, sublime, paradise. Shall I keep going........?

We bid farewell to the Mouska villagers and headed down the Faria River. We stopped after about 20 minutes near Beveridge's Post, John's Knoll to the east and Shaggy Ridge to the west and Reg pointed out the Japanese machine gunner's position.

The rest of the morning was spent traversing the river downstream to Aginau. This was a new-found joy - wading through cascading rivers was not something I was accustomed to. It is a rare day to hike in South Australia when it rains all day, let alone in a flooded creek. Safely negotiating a water-logged river is a skill, and today I had a lot of practice trying to perfect the technique.

The river gorge had no breeze filtering down it, the heat was oppressive. We chased the shaded banks from side to side and by the time we reached Aginau, hot sticky bodies craved cool relief.
However, over lunch, Zac presented us with an important decision to make - leisurely afternoon in the village, or one last hike....

Knowing the end of this journey was near, I seized the opportunity to make the most of this last opportunity to wander, to roam and explore more of this wild landscape
Note to self: Relish and savour every moment.

The afternoon hike was a 3-4 km tramp down the Faria River. There was only a group of 4 trekkers along with Titus and a few porters, the others preferring the less strenuous option.
The river valley was extremely wide for the majority of the walk, silted with dark river sand, almost volcanic in appearance.

We meandered, following the river until we came to a sharp westerly bend and the river narrowed into a tight gorge. Luckily for us, this was our exit point.
We climbed out of the river bed, scrambling up the jungle clad slopes, After about 15 minutes, the forest opened up onto a ridge spur covered in thick kunai grass almost 2 metres high. The porters slashed a way through. It was a hot, sweaty climb up with frequent stops due to the steepness and also the narrow ridge, a knife-edge in places.

As I climbed, I remembered the battle that was fought for this strategic landmark, Pallier's Hill, and when we reached the top and surveyed the 360 degree panoramic view, I felt humbled once again by the sacrifices made for the freedom that I have taken too lightly for granted.

In hindsight, this hike should have been done before the Shaggy Ridge ascent as the battle for Pallier's Hill and the adjoining King's Hill is played out during the early chapters of this campaign and the vantage point really does set the scene beautifully to showcase the battle arena.

Standing on of Pallier's Hill was incredibly special - a memorable shared experience and a highlight of the trek.

We descended and retraced our footsteps back to camp, with enough time for a dip in the cool waters of the river. With plentiful water flowing from a waterspout, this was a tropical "Norsca" experience. I lingered, immersed (pun intended) in the aesthetic. 

This was more than washing away the day's hard-earned perspiration, this was a watershed moment.

That evening, I was absorbed by star-gazing late into the night and I dreamed under a starry sky in the shadow of Shaggy Ridge for the last time.