Rise and Shine - the ridge top awaits!
The ridge top might only be 6 kms in length, but the traverse is difficult.
This is not for the faint-hearted, the necessity of “one-man front” sentry position along the ridge during the campaign becomes obvious from the very first step of the hike today.
We headed north along the ridge, the track parallel to the crest line in some parts, but contouring from the exposed eastern edge to the jungle clad western verge.
It was hard to know where to look - to the horizon where a panorama of mountain ranges were clad in an ocean-like canopy of green jungle, the foothills of Shaggy Ridge covered in thick kunai grass, the sheer slopes running down to the vein-like rivers below, or down at your feet so you didn't stray from the narrow track. The foot pad was barely visible and the porters used their bush knifes to good effect to make a path - trail-blazing indeed!
Old small observation post holes along the crest also added to the need for care as they were overgrown and hidden. The walking poles proved to be a god-send today.
Leipus proved himself to be the consummate porter and guide today. He was always about 5 steps ahead of me showing me where to place my walking poles and my feet, tapping his walking stick on tree roots, rocks and fallen branches to show me the best path to take. All this while carrying my 10 kg pack and collecting flowers to adorn my hat!
Reg and Zac gave us several opportunities to stop and hear the stories of the battles, absorbing the history as we passed Japanese and Australian weapon pits, observation post holes, ammunition shells, rusted drink flasks and other relics.
We stopped at several landmarks - the Pimple, Intermediate Pimple and Green Sniper’s Pimple.
Note to self:
A thought provoking and sobering shared experience with a new-found appreciation of the legacy left by a generation of Australian soldiers who fought for our freedom.
We stopped for a morning tea break. It was hot, humid and only 10am!
Whilst refuelling and rehydrating, we heard an unnerving sound – the crackling noise of fire
burning dry grass!!!
Being from a bushfire prone area, the first instinct is to
panic and run. But we discovered this was just a routine “burn off”.
The locals use fire for land clearing purposes to keep the kunai grass under control. It also added extra benefits, with the hope that the smoke will mobilise
some wild feral animals out of the jungle to be killed for food. In this instance, there was excitable shouting amongst the porters as a cassowary was retreating from the fire front. Unfortunately, despite their best intentions, the cassowary escaped. It was a great example of seeing their hunting skills firsthand albeit unsuccessful on this occasion
Note to self:
Where there’s smoke, there is fire!
The next couple of hours were spent negotiating the northern end of Shaggy Ridge, clambering over McCaughey’s Knoll
Time for lunch, with another fire lit, this time for the billy!
After lunch, we head for the key landmarks of Prothero 2 and Prothero 1 on the northern edge of Shaggy Ridge.
We then descend to Kankiryo Saddle. One and a half hours down steep and slippery slopes with more thick vegetation to negotiate, we arrive at Kankiryo at 3.30pm.
It has been a long day, covering about 14 kms in distance.
Most of the porters were sent off ahead to set up camp, my tent was already up!
A waterspout with fresh water was located about 10 minutes away and Leipus replenishes my depleted water supplies.
I decide to sacrifice some of my drinking water, use 300mls to wash and treat myself to a new set of clothes, having worn the same ones for the last 3 days!
The afternoon sun dips away quickly with a short twilight, reminding me of how close we are to the equator. Dinner is accompanied by the sound of distant rumbles of thunder. Not long after dessert is consumed, the heavens open up with a tropical downpour. We make a hasty retreat to the tents.
With the pitter-patter of big, fat tropical raindrops falling on the tent roof, I reflect on the day and recall one of my favourite quotes - paraphrased here, "what orbit of the planets has put me in this place at this time, where time takes a breath and I dance on the edge of my dreams"
What an amazing adventure - boldly crossing thresholds, on the path less travelled.....
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