Of highlands and heartlines - Mount Douglas to Soc's camp

Today was four seasons in one day.....
Low cloud in the morning, 
sunny periods at morning tea time, 
drizzle at lunchtime, 
clouds rolling in during the afternoon, 
ferocious winds overnight with rain

Thick forested, undulating ridgetop walking...... sounds familiar.

We came across the remains of the boy found on last year's trek. 
The skeleton was still intact, with T-shirt and shorts, but no footwear or personal belongings. 
Succumbing to exposure was the likely cause of death. 
Permission had been given to bury the remains and the boys, after fashioning a wooden cross, paid their last respects. 
It was a rather sombre affair. I could not help but wonder why he was there, and what had happened.

We climbed out of the scrub and onto the grasslands. 
The mountain range now revealed its basalt rock foundations as we approached the south western flanks of the Mt Vic massif.

The plan was to camp at Soc's High Camp, near two shallow lakes around a forested knoll. 
The tarns were dry last year, but this year they were full, a sign of the amount of rain the mountains had received. 
I had no intention of washing, though a few (fool)hardy boys did venture in for a dip.

Clouds and mists swirled in with strong winds and the temperatures dropped. 
Tents was hastily set up with the weather deteriorating.
Camped in a cold and somewhat exposed position, I retreated to the tent and put on every layer of clothing I had. 

My hot water bottles were definitely a god-send that night. 
The winds howled and I had to secure the tent on a couple of occasions. The camp tarp was blown from its anchors and billowed like a sail in the stiff gusts.
Not much sleep was had.....

Of highlands and heartlines - Dixon Pass to Mount Douglas

Another clear and sunny morning
The goal is starting to become a reality with Mt Vic summit only 3 days away.

Ridge tops exposed to the elements with evidence of rain and wind damage. 
Lots of clambering over fallen trees. Still very undulating. Damp, mossy forest. 
Even Zac had a few slips today. 
Slow going in the morning due to more track clearing than anticipated. 

Happy to plod along and be alone with my thoughts. 
We may have been a party of three trekkers, and eleven porters, but I was happy to be at the back of the group. 
I listened to the chatty conversations of Ian and Zac, both well-travelled and well-read, they connected well and it was interesting to listen to their stories, not feeling like I had to contribute all the time

An unexpected sight today. We encountered masses of wild strawberries, the brambles snagging our trousers and traces of pink-coloured cassowary droppings along the trail, the birds obviously feasting on the abundant crop.

Blazes on the trees - trail markers

Strawberry fields forever

Lovely lunch spot found by a flowing creek. 
According to Zac, much more water around this year compared to last year. 
June apparently being in the middle of the "dry season" in PNG, not so this year.

Andy with a new hairstyle - the jungle mullet!

After a short afternoon walk, we set up camp on the northern flank of Mt Douglas. The boys were reluctant to carry water from lunch onwards. 
Discussions between Zac and the local leaders about trekking expectations ensued and again porters and packs required re-organisation due to uneven load distribution. 

A short walk meant being able to rest during the afternoon - still feeling fatigued. 

We were sheltered from strong winds which roared above us through the tree-top canopy. 
The weather took a turn for the worse, with distant rumbles of thunder and flashes of lightning accompanying more rain. 

I retired to the tent, acknowledging my fatigue. not seeing it as a burden or a hindrance, but accepting it as a chance to be alone. 
I retreated into my thoughts 

I may be energised by company, but I am also nourished by solitude. 
The landscape lent itself to reflection - isolation, remoteness, undisturbed, unspoiled wilderness
Silences measured by footsteps on the leaf litter, the dung-laden bogs, the grassy plains, the muddy earth. 

The rhythm of walking - hours passing seemingly without any thoughts. 
The simplicity of walking - of putting one foot down, and then putting the other foot down. 
Again and again, day in and day out. 

I didn't have tired feet from walking, but I had a tired heart.

I seem to forge connections easily. I work in a collaborative team, and appear extroverted, but those who are closest to me know that I have a public facade, the smile is sometimes a mask. 
And unbeknownst to Zac and Ian, my defences were down. 
The walls I had built to protect myself had fallen down and were crumbling around me, right down to my foundations.

I was broken.

I was desperately trying to fix myself, but it wasn't going to plan. 
I couldn't find the missing parts, didn't have the right tools. 
Was I repairable or should I just be written off?

It's like I'm a jigsaw puzzle that can't be put back together because some of the pieces are lost or missing

I know that I have changed, that I am not the same person. 
The glass is not half-full anymore, it's not even half-empty. 
There's almost nothing left, save for the dregs at the bottom.

Oh, the ache to be better. 



Just keep going, one foot in front of the other......

Of highlands and heartlines - Gorilla Head Camp to Dixon Pass

Another crisp sunny morning.
Heading towards Mt Thynne, we were treated to beautiful mountain vistas with Mount Albert Edward dominating the western horizon.

Simon

Mount Albert Edward on the horizon

Mt Thynne

Looking back to English Peaks

A few of the boys climbed to the summit of Mt Thynne. 
We traversed around the contours and pushed on towards Winter Heights. 
Beautiful views across to our ascent trail of Day 4 (approach to Lake Ohma). 
We had now effectively completed the "dog-leg" stage and were in the Owen Stanley Ranges proper.

Winter Heights

Looking over to the Day 4 trail

The boys - Copeland, Kenny, Morea, Lucas, Blaizes,
Andy, Alfred, Jonny, Dixon, Jerry and Simon

Copeland

Encountered thick forest in the afternoon, needing more trail cutting than expected and slowing the pace down. Very undulating terrain.
We arrived at Dixon Pass around 4pm.
We camped under forest canopy, Andy once again being the consummate porter and providing me with a mattress of fern fronds under my tent - a touch of luxury and extra padding - bliss!

A small watercourse nearby was a temptation too good to refuse and I had a wash for the first time in 3 days. It was Saturday and time for a fresh change of clothes after nearly a week in the same daytime ensemble.
The simple things in life are the best...... especially clean underwear.

Rain set in just before dark and continued well into the night.
I resorted to antibiotics for my gut issues which were still a major problem.

Of highlands and heartlines - Lake Ohma to Gorilla Head Camp

This was another memorable day on the trail, for many reasons
I called today's walk - The "Poo Guinea Trail"

A clear and starry night, gave way to a stunning morning of sunshine. 
I had several opportunities for stargazing last night on the way to toilet stops as unfortunately, I had the "runs".
There was ice on my tent this morning, testament to the lower temperatures at altitude.

We had a late departure owing to a few camp issues. Zac had employed three extra porters to carry loads up to the lake with the intention of turning them around and back to Kanga as the loads became lighter. Zac did an impromptu "weigh-in" and there had clearly been a disproportionate level of pack-carrying by the porters - some carrying 10kg, with others carrying 25kgs. 
There was a general re-organisation of supplies and packs, with the three porters asked to head home. This decision was not popular, even though it had been agreed to and was the best option. Zac had only provided cold-weather clothing provisions for 11 porters and as we were heading into cooler climes, it was imperative from a safety viewpoint that the "rules" were adhered to. 
Sensibility eventually reigned but sorting out this issue took some time, and it wasn't until after 9am that we finally set off after sending the 3 porters back down the track.

Low cloud had moved in and it was not worthwhile climbing the English Peaks, disappointing given the spectacular views that are normally seen from the top. 
Navigation proved a little difficult in the foggy conditions and we lost the trail on a couple of occasions. 
We had a brief stop at a marker indicating the border of Central Province and Northern Province. 

We headed towards Lake Ramu, stopping for a break when the sun made an appearance and Mt Scratchely came into view. 
It seemed so alien and remote. 
We were in the middle of nowhere, 5 days walk from Kanga with a repeater station tower on the horizon.

We headed off to our lunch spot in the "Justin Lucas" valley, passing the headwaters of the Vanapa River. The watercourse cut through the middle of this valley and had several waterfalls. 

This open valley of grasslands felt like "the badlands". 
The terrain was boggy in parts and was uneven and lumpy due to animal/feral pig action. Cycads and ferns were in abundance.

The walking today was superb. There was so much to enjoy  - the land rolling up and down, the open skies, the wide plateau, the grasses rippling in mountain breezes, the reflection of light on streams - 
Mother Nature at her finest. 

We were taking a 180 degree "dog-leg" turn today, heading west and then turning to a southwesterly direction. We were still 3 days away from Mt Vic. 
We skirted around forest clad hills and traversed undulating terrain. 

By mid-afternoon we reached Gorilla Head Rock and walked up a small valley before deciding on a campsite just past another rock formation called Dead Man Screaming. 
This was less than a half days walking from the base of Mt Thynne at approx 3600m.

Gorilla Head Rock

I was spent, having had 8 "trips" to the toilet today. Keeping my diet bland and popping a few "binders", I was hoping not having to resort to antibiotics.
To add insult to injury, I also had badly blistered lips. It was either from my weakened immune state, altitude related or just plain old-fashioned sunburn. 
I wasn't a happy camper.

Of highlands and heartlines - Running Brook to Lake Ohma

Today was one of my favourite days on the trail
I called today - the Rhododendron Trail.

Sunbeams through the canopy

Breakfast

Normally just a trickle, yesterday's rain had swollen the "running brook". 
We clambered out of the gully via a very slippery path. Thank goodness for the track work the boys had done the previous afternoon, otherwise it would have been treacherous on the muddy slippery slopes. 

After about an hour, we stopped a clearing. McGregor's Lookout had great views looking down the Yodda Valley which was blanketed in low cloud, and vistas of the mountain peaks rising above it.

Yesterday's downpour had dislodged many of the flowers from the rhododendron bushes. Crimson red hues dominated but there were splashes of buttercup yellow and tangerine orange as well. I imagined I was Little Red Riding Hood following a trail of red petals (instead of breadcrumbs). It was as though someone had gone ahead of us and sprinkled the blooms along the path to show us the way. 
Very pretty trail markers indeed.

Lunch break was taken in the mossy forest. 

The canopy was thinning out and we reached the grasslands. 
I spied the first cycad. 
I could not believe the size of it, so had to get a photograph of it just to prove it!

The first cycad

The boys, amused by my cycad sighting

We continued on, the trail alternating through grasslands and forest. 
Even in the middle of the day, dew clung to spider webs in the grass.  
We were treated to views across to Dixon Pass, where we would be camping in 3 days time.  

Winter Heights came into view a little farther along and just prior to a short descent to a glacial lake, a spectacular view of the English Peaks. 

By now, the group had splintered and some of the porters were lagging behind. It had been a long day, and we made it to Lake Ohma at around 4.45pm.

The afternoon sun made for a spectacular setting as camp was set up. Simon had to head back along the track to find the other porters. 

Unfortunately, my porter was not in the lead group, so I went exploring around the lake while I waited for my change of clothes to arrive. 
I was keen to have a swim in the lake, but unfortunately I missed the chance as it was 45 mins before the stragglers arrived, the sun was setting and the temperature already dropping away. 

Too cold for a swim, I was very disappointed.

We were now 1 day ahead of the 2016 schedule at 3500m, an altitude we would maintain for the next 6 days. 
Not much firewood and hard to keep a fire going again, we retreated to bed by 9pm.
However I was up several times overnight with a grumbling tummy.......