Of highlands and heartlines - Lake Ohma to Gorilla Head Camp

This was another memorable day on the trail, for many reasons
I called today's walk - The "Poo Guinea Trail"

A clear and starry night, gave way to a stunning morning of sunshine. 
I had several opportunities for stargazing last night on the way to toilet stops as unfortunately, I had the "runs".
There was ice on my tent this morning, testament to the lower temperatures at altitude.

We had a late departure owing to a few camp issues. Zac had employed three extra porters to carry loads up to the lake with the intention of turning them around and back to Kanga as the loads became lighter. Zac did an impromptu "weigh-in" and there had clearly been a disproportionate level of pack-carrying by the porters - some carrying 10kg, with others carrying 25kgs. 
There was a general re-organisation of supplies and packs, with the three porters asked to head home. This decision was not popular, even though it had been agreed to and was the best option. Zac had only provided cold-weather clothing provisions for 11 porters and as we were heading into cooler climes, it was imperative from a safety viewpoint that the "rules" were adhered to. 
Sensibility eventually reigned but sorting out this issue took some time, and it wasn't until after 9am that we finally set off after sending the 3 porters back down the track.

Low cloud had moved in and it was not worthwhile climbing the English Peaks, disappointing given the spectacular views that are normally seen from the top. 
Navigation proved a little difficult in the foggy conditions and we lost the trail on a couple of occasions. 
We had a brief stop at a marker indicating the border of Central Province and Northern Province. 

We headed towards Lake Ramu, stopping for a break when the sun made an appearance and Mt Scratchely came into view. 
It seemed so alien and remote. 
We were in the middle of nowhere, 5 days walk from Kanga with a repeater station tower on the horizon.

We headed off to our lunch spot in the "Justin Lucas" valley, passing the headwaters of the Vanapa River. The watercourse cut through the middle of this valley and had several waterfalls. 

This open valley of grasslands felt like "the badlands". 
The terrain was boggy in parts and was uneven and lumpy due to animal/feral pig action. Cycads and ferns were in abundance.

The walking today was superb. There was so much to enjoy  - the land rolling up and down, the open skies, the wide plateau, the grasses rippling in mountain breezes, the reflection of light on streams - 
Mother Nature at her finest. 

We were taking a 180 degree "dog-leg" turn today, heading west and then turning to a southwesterly direction. We were still 3 days away from Mt Vic. 
We skirted around forest clad hills and traversed undulating terrain. 

By mid-afternoon we reached Gorilla Head Rock and walked up a small valley before deciding on a campsite just past another rock formation called Dead Man Screaming. 
This was less than a half days walking from the base of Mt Thynne at approx 3600m.

Gorilla Head Rock

I was spent, having had 8 "trips" to the toilet today. Keeping my diet bland and popping a few "binders", I was hoping not having to resort to antibiotics.
To add insult to injury, I also had badly blistered lips. It was either from my weakened immune state, altitude related or just plain old-fashioned sunburn. 
I wasn't a happy camper.