Only boots find the sublime! - Namche to Lukla

Today I went for a walk.....
Namche to Lukla

Slept well.
Left Namche with bittersweet emotions and the realisation that this was the last day of trekking
We tackled the steep downhill section we had climbed 11 days before, arriving at the lookout for our final view of Mt Everest. And we were not disappointed. The snow-capped mountain peaks contrasted against the cerulean skies were stunning.

We were retracing the path of our first and second days on the trek.
It was a different perspective to see the views from the opposite direction.
The track was very busy with numerous trekkers, Sherpas portering and yak trains.
It was like a busy Sunday morning on the Waterfall Gully track.

Last glimpse of Mt Everest

I started off strongly and for the first two hours, I felt OK.
But then my pace slowed again....I felt like I was running on empty.
As I plodded, I was going over it in my mind, trying to work it out ...
I came up with a few theories. Maybe my energy levels waned because I wasn't drinking or snacking enough. It is true we didn't stop frequently for breaks and I when I did take on water and snacks, I would be OK for an hour, but then the fatigue would kick in again.
Maybe we shouldn't have combined the extra trekking days into the itinerary, after all we had condensed 15 days into 13.
I wondered whether the adrenaline high I had been experiencing was wearing off, the buzz had definitely gone.
Maybe it was the altitude. Altitude changes your attitude. I was cognisant that my thoughts and emotions were amplified.
Perhaps it was a combination of all of the above, conspiring against me.
I was down on my self because I had imagined myself walking down this track, striding out, grinning with a smile beaming from ear to ear, high-fiving trekkers on their way up the track, just starting on their adventure.

Jack and Ram knew I was struggling and were very patient.
It was a just a matter of putting one foot in front of the other.
I tried to remain as positive as I could.
I immersed myself in the moment, the here and now, absorbing the scenery -
the lush forest, the river, the gardens, the waterfalls,
focusing on the experience.

Heading down the Khumbu Valley

Multi-tasking - drying off the laundry

After lunch, I really had to dig deep into my reserves for the last 3 hours, walking from Phakding to Lukla.

It was sheer relief as we approached the archway which signalled the "official" end of the trek.

I was exhausted but exhilarated!!!

We did it!

What an accomplishment!
Over the previous 14 days, I had crossed high passes and bagged peaks,
with my head in the clouds and my heart in the mountains.
And written another amazing chapter in the story of my life!

My final thoughts.....
Life is the sum of magical moments and you should make the most of each and every one of them, every day!

But I'll leave the final words to poet Robert Burns who could have been waxing lyrically about the Himalayas instead of the Scottish Highlands when he wrote...

Farewell to the mountains, high-cover'd with snow,
Farewell to the straths and green vallies below;
Farewell to the forests and wild-hanging woods,
Farewell to the torrents and loud-pouring floods

Wherever I wander, wherever I rove,

The hills of the Highlands for ever I love.

My heart's in the Highlands, my heart is not here.....

Only boots find the sublime! - Pheriche to Namche

Today I went for a walk.....

Pheriche - Namche

Slept well - might have been the lower altitude, or maybe exhaustion.
We left Pheriche at 7am, with a long day ahead of us to get to Namche.
Even though there was an overall descent of 800 metres from Pheriche to Namche, it was no gradual descent. It was actually quite undulating.

We were on the "walk out", which means that the goal of the trip or trek has been achieved and the end was near.
The mountains had captured my heart and my imagination.
But they had also taken a toll.
I was fatigued, much more than I expected. My glass half-full outlook was going to be be stretched.
The good thing was that I recognised it, acknowledged it and made a conscious decision to make the last 2 days as enjoyable as I could.
I was determined to savour every moment and the experience.
For most of the day, the mountain vistas distracted me.....

We started off at a reasonable pace.
After crossing Pheriche pass, we encountered numerous yak trains.
This slowed down our journey as we respectfully gave right of way to these beasts.

Leaving Pheriche

Looking back to Pheriche Pass

Give way to the yak train!

As we headed down the valley, we could spy in the distance, the villages we would be passing through on our way to our lunch stop - Somare, then Pangboche, and finally Tengboche.
My pace slowed as I tired.
At the 2 and a half hour mark, on the outskirts of Pangboche, I stopped.
I took on some food and fluids, rested and then pushed on.

Looking back at Pangboche

Over the next hour and a half, my energy levels gradually waned again.
We stopped for another break at Tengboche.

Between us and our lunch stop, was a very steep descent to the river.
It was close to an hour of knee jarring, quad burning action.
The track was in full sun in some parts, making for some hot and sweaty work.
Thankfully for the last 20 minutes, there was forest canopy to shade and cool us off.
A very welcome 1 hour lunch stop by the river refreshed us, in readiness to tackle the last 2 hours.

Tengboche is just over there!

Tengboche Monastery

Ready to descend to lunch stop

Namche is just over there.
Just follow the faint track contouring around the hill in the middle distance.
Still another 4 hours away.  

Riverside lunch stop

We had to climb back out of the river valley, with two short but very steep pinches before reaching the "Nepali flats" that would lead us back into Namche.
The weather turned quickly, as it can in the mountains.
The wind picked up and the clouds rolled in from the south engulfing the mountains.
Not having any landmarks for navigation and no views to distract me, I became weary and the plod became a slog.

We arrived on the outskirts of Namche just before 3pm.
It was earlier than we expected, thinking we still had another hour on the track.
What a relief!!!
Walking through the streets of Namche to our hotel, we passed the bar.
Out the front, the owner recognised us and greeted us with hearty congratulations.

And suddenly I realised that a hot shower was only a short walk away.....
There are very few photos of me on the trek without either my headband, my bandanna or my hat on, and for a very good reason!
Only those who have been on multi-day wilderness hikes know the true value and meaning of something as simple as hot running water and a bar of soap!
I freely admit that I stood under that shower rose for quite some time. Oh, what a feeling!!!

Then it was off to the bar for a few celebratory drinks after our enforced dry spell!!!
Only one more day to Lukla.....

Only boots find the sublime - Gorakshep to Pheriche

Today I went for a walk.....
From Gorakshep to Pheriche via Kala Pattar

The buzz around the dining room last night was all about Kala Pattar
Everest Base Camp might be the "holy grail" for some, but the best views of Mt Everest on our trek would be from the summit of Kala Pattar, coincidentally also being the highest point at 5550 metres

I had been apprehensive about this ascent. I was feeling OK, but knew that as we had gained altitude, I was finding the walking harder with my breathing becoming more laboured with less exertion.
I was struggling and even though I was feeling determined to try and tick all the boxes, I also knew that I didn't want to to be a victim of my own FOMO syndrome!
I had promised myself that there would not be an encore performance of my Peruvian trip 2 years ago.

As with the Gokyo Ri summit day, some people were planning an early start with a 4 am wake up call. We were woken by our alarm at 5.15 am. I had not slept well. Jack had noticed that my breathing had been quite laboured overnight. We were at 5100 metres, and at altitude, sleep does become more difficult and fitful. Sleeping tablets and alcohol are strongly discouraged as they depress your breathing, so we had deliberately avoided using them.

We left Gorakshep at 5.30 am.
Venus was in the east, but fading fast in the rapidly approaching dawn light.
The temperature was at least 0C, with a heavy frost on the sparse vegetation and a thin layer of ice on the rocky track.
Gloves, beanies, neck gaiters as balaclavas and Goretex jackets on to keep the cold at bay.

Can you see Venus?  She's there!

Looking back at Gorakshep - first light on the peaks!

Looking forward!

The ascent was steep and I was slow, slower than any other day. I took my time, because I had to.
But there was plenty of good scenery to distract me. The views of the mountains was spectacular, with first light touching the peaks.
We encountered a few people already on their way back down, some saying it was too cold to wait for the sunrise. I managed to overtake a few people, some were struggling with their breathing.
Just after 7 am, nearing the summit, a chorus of cheering echoed from the top. The sun had just crested over the summit of Mt Everest.
The last couple of hundred metres was serious rock scrambling, and we made it to the top at 7.15.

Pumori

First light on Ama Dablam

Mt Everest left of centre in background, Lhotse on the right

Mt Everest

Summit of Kala Pattar in sight, with Pumori in background

The panorama was spectacular - even better that EBC! It was truly amazing, made even the more special by the morning dawn light. Maybe it is worthwhile being a morning person!

We scrambled up to the very top of the peak, took lots of photos and soaked up the views.
We spent about an hour at the summit, could have stayed there all day. Would have loved to stay until sunset to experience a whole day there, experiencing the many moods of the mountains.
Bathed in brilliant sunshine and cloudless cerulean skies, it doesn't get much better than this.

I might have to use that word again...... sublime!

Well all good things have to come to an end. We had a long day ahead of us, the plan to get to Pheriche by this afternoon.
And we still had to have breakfast!
We descended slowly, stopping for long breaks to savour the moment.
We both agreed that Kala Pattar was definitely a massive highlight of the trek.

We breakfasted at Gorakshep and were back on the trail at 10.30, heading to Lobuche.
We had a short drink stop there, before pushing on down the valley.
Along the way, I deliberately loitered, frequently stopping to turn around and capture those mountain images in my mind's eye, not knowing whether I would ever visit this magical place again.
About an hour from Lobuche, was a series of memorial tombstones, a stark and sombre reminder of those who have lost their lives on Mt. Everest.

Leaving Gorakshep

Approaching Lobuche

Looking back towards EBC

Looking forward

Tombstone Memorials

Approaching Dughla

A steep descent to our lunch stop at Dughla took longer than expected as we encountered some large trekking groups coming up the track. We stopped to chat to a few while they took the opportunity to take a breather. They were part of the last groups to fly into Lukla before the weather closed down the airport for 4 days. Quite a few Aussies and Kiwis, all very excited about the prospect of getting to EBC.
All I said to them was that it could be described in one word - breathtaking!

Lunch was taken at Dughla, with the specials board indicating cappuccinos on the menu.
Yes, there was a Sherpa barista in our midst. Couldn't let this opportunity pass!
And the verdict - pretty good!

There had been talk of trying to get to Pangboche today, but I was feeling fatigued, so the plan was to finish at Pheriche. You can see down the valley all the way from Dughla to Pheriche. with a descent of about 400 metres. I was tired and the 2 hour walk turned into a real trudge. despite the beautiful views of Ama Dablam.

Ice melt straight off the terminal face of the Khumbu Glacier

Magnificent Ama Dablam!

Yak Train!

Sherpa Train!

Dry stone walls

We arrived at Pheriche just after 3pm. Our lodge had an en-suite bathroom, still no shower though....
Only one more day until we get back to Namche - a hot shower sounds blissful!

Hotel at Pheriche - not ours!

Afternoon tea time!