Thangnak to Lobuche
Today was going to be a long day.....
We had been planning this strategy for a few days. Ram had seen that we were fairly strong hikers, completing most days several hours ahead of schedule. He thought it might be possible for us to combine 2 days of the planned itinerary into one. This was dependent on how we were coping with the altitude, avoiding injury and accounting for the possibility of bad weather.
The mountain gods were smiling on us.............
Alarm clock set for 5.15 am, breakfasting by 5.30
On the track at 6.30 with cloudless skies and brilliant sunshine.
We climbed steadily, gaining about 300 metres in altitude until we reached what Ram called the "mini-pass".
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| Looking back down the valley towards Thangnak |
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| Mini-pass |
From here we could see Cho La Pass to the east. There was a definite path to follow initially, but this quickly petered out and all that we could see between us and the pass was Boulder Alley and a very steep ascent.
The map notes for this section stated "slippery path and possibility of rocks falling"
Negotiating a recent avalanche field, rock-hopping was the order of the day, the walking poles getting a good workout.
The summit beckoned, and we reached Cho La Pass (5368 metres) in good time and fine form
The altitude training and acclimitisation was now paying off!
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| The trail that quickly disappeared..... |
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| Boulder Alley - that small red dot near the centre is Lakpa! Cho La Pass is just left of centre on the horizon |
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| Scree slope! |
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| Almost there! |
Made it!
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| View from Cho La Pass looking west |
The views were stunning. But the real surprise was what was on the other side....to the west, on the other side of Cho La Pass was a massive field of snow and ice stretching as far as the eye could see!
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| Our Himalayan Hilltop Hoods! |
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| Surprise! |
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| Loving the mountains! |
Ram had warned us about this section of the hike. The map notes stated "danger of crevasses, glacier crossing - stay on left side"
Jack was very excited because he had never walked on snow before. The walking poles now doubled as ski poles as we took our first tentative steps on the snow, trying to find our "ice-legs".
The sound and sensation of ice and snow crunching underneath the soles of our hiking boots was one of the great highlights to lock away in the memory bank.
This tricky section required intense concentration for the next 45 minutes but we were rewarded at the end of the ice field with even more spectacular vistas.
Our planned lunch stop was at the bottom of this valley.
We made good time and reached Dzongla just after midday, having descended 600 metres from Cho La Pass.
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| The source of the ice field |
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| Jack pointing out the magnificent North Face of Cholatse (6335m) |
After lunch, we set our compass for Lobuche where we would leave our "path less traveled" and join the Everest Base Camp route. The weather started to turn and we were soon shrouded in swirling mists and then, enveloped in thick clouds. The visibility dropped as did the temperature and we had to don Gore-tex jacket, beanies and gloves for the last 45 minutes of the hike.
We arrived at Lobuche tired and cold, but were quickly warmed by a mugs of hot chocolate.
The lodge at Lobuche was quite busy, with two large trekking teams, and several smaller groups already checked in. We had hit the "super highway".
There was a a real "buzz" around the communal dining room, with lots of chatter and most people planning their assault on Base Camp tomorrow.
The serious side of Everest trekking became a reality here. We learned from Ram that one of the hikers from one of the larger commercial groups had altitude sickness, with her oxygen saturation levels at 69%. She was being administered continuous oxygen and arrangements were being made to have her helicoptered out at first light tomorrow morning.
We also discovered that in the past week, Lukla airport had been closed for 4 days, with no flights in or out due to bad weather. Seems as though the mountain gods had been smiling on us.
This lodge does get a special mention and an award for "Best Beds" on the trek. Innerspring mattresses - what luxury! I shudder to think how they got there - was it Sherpa or yak!
Big day tomorrow - I can't believe we are off to Everest Base Camp!
The mountains are calling and I must go.......
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