Lukla to Phakding
Early morning alarm at 5 am for a 5.15 pick-up to the airport. Feeling tired after last minute packing last night trying to work out what to take and what to leave behind. Had to be ruthless - pack limit of 15 kg per person for flights and for porter to carry
Scheduled to be on one of the first flights out of Kathmandu. Early morning mountain flights are the ones most likely not to be cancelled. Clouds roll in during the day in the Himalayas - clear mornings, cloudy afternoons. Nothing to be left to chance....
All checked in at the airport by 6 am (10 kg packs!) and ready to fly. Shuttle bus transfer from domestic terminal out to tarmac where our tiny twin engine,18-seater aircraft was waiting to depart for our 35 minute flight.
Second flight to depart. Our guide had already advised us to sit on the left-hand side of the plane so we had mountain views - fantastic vista of snow-capped Himalayan peaks.
The flight into Lukla is notoriously known to be one of the most dangerous - short runway, running uphill towards the face of a mountain. No margin for error. Needless to say, I was a little apprehensive!
On the descent into Lukla, the runway finally came into view as the nose of the aircraft was pointing in a slightly downwards direction. Here we go!
And then it was all over...phew! The landing was smooth and uneventful, much better than I expected. Mind you, there was a spontaneous round of applause after touchdown, so I think there must have been a degree of relief amongst my co-passengers.
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| Yep, that's the runway! |
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| Lodge at Lukla - communal dining area |
We transferred from the airport to one of the local lodges where we met our porter, Lakpa. Fit, young and thin, he had worked for the trekking company several times and had accompanied Ram, our guide on this trek before.
After some tea, we set off at 7.30 am.
On leaving the outskirts of Lukla there was a checkpoint where we had to register and show our permits. Our destination today was Phakding - a short walk of about 3 hours. Just long enough to stretch the legs and start acclimatising.
These monstrous beasts ferry supplies up and down the mountain tracks. Horsepower of a different kind!
They are usually guided along the trail by one person, but occasionally accompanied by an entire family. Whips are carried by the guides but rarely used. You can usually hear them approaching from quite a distance because they wear bells around their necks. The golden rule when encountering yaks on the trail is to move across to the mountain side of the track and stop walking until they saunter pass. Easy!
The trail is wide and well worn by trekkers and the yak trains. Mainly compacted earth with stones - all hand cut and paved by the locals. We passed through several small villages. The houses were reminiscent of those we saw in the rural areas of Peru. Hand hewn stone walls, small wooden windows and stone shingled or iron roofs. The local vegetable plots had abundant fresh produce being cultivated and nurtured - crops of cabbage, spinach, corn and spring onions,
even orchards of apple trees.
Traversing the first of several suspension bridges to cross the Dudh Kosi which afforded great views of the river valley both upstream and downstream, we reached Phakding by 11.45 am.
Spent the afternoon exploring the village which spanned both sides of the river, then early dinner and off to bed. Resting comfortably at 2,610 m.........
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| Beer Garden Lodge in background |
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