From Gorakshep to Pheriche via Kala Pattar
The buzz around the dining room last night was all about Kala Pattar
Everest Base Camp might be the "holy grail" for some, but the best views of Mt Everest on our trek would be from the summit of Kala Pattar, coincidentally also being the highest point at 5550 metres
I had been apprehensive about this ascent. I was feeling OK, but knew that as we had gained altitude, I was finding the walking harder with my breathing becoming more laboured with less exertion.
I was struggling and even though I was feeling determined to try and tick all the boxes, I also knew that I didn't want to to be a victim of my own FOMO syndrome!
I had promised myself that there would not be an encore performance of my Peruvian trip 2 years ago.
As with the Gokyo Ri summit day, some people were planning an early start with a 4 am wake up call. We were woken by our alarm at 5.15 am. I had not slept well. Jack had noticed that my breathing had been quite laboured overnight. We were at 5100 metres, and at altitude, sleep does become more difficult and fitful. Sleeping tablets and alcohol are strongly discouraged as they depress your breathing, so we had deliberately avoided using them.
We left Gorakshep at 5.30 am.
Venus was in the east, but fading fast in the rapidly approaching dawn light.
The temperature was at least 0C, with a heavy frost on the sparse vegetation and a thin layer of ice on the rocky track.
Gloves, beanies, neck gaiters as balaclavas and Goretex jackets on to keep the cold at bay.
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| Can you see Venus? She's there! |
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| Looking back at Gorakshep - first light on the peaks! |
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| Looking forward! |
The ascent was steep and I was slow, slower than any other day. I took my time, because I had to.
But there was plenty of good scenery to distract me. The views of the mountains was spectacular, with first light touching the peaks.
We encountered a few people already on their way back down, some saying it was too cold to wait for the sunrise. I managed to overtake a few people, some were struggling with their breathing.
Just after 7 am, nearing the summit, a chorus of cheering echoed from the top. The sun had just crested over the summit of Mt Everest.
The last couple of hundred metres was serious rock scrambling, and we made it to the top at 7.15.
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| Pumori |
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| First light on Ama Dablam |
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| Mt Everest left of centre in background, Lhotse on the right |
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| Mt Everest |
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| Summit of Kala Pattar in sight, with Pumori in background |
The panorama was spectacular - even better that EBC! It was truly amazing, made even the more special by the morning dawn light. Maybe it is worthwhile being a morning person!
We scrambled up to the very top of the peak, took lots of photos and soaked up the views.
We spent about an hour at the summit, could have stayed there all day. Would have loved to stay until sunset to experience a whole day there, experiencing the many moods of the mountains.
Bathed in brilliant sunshine and cloudless cerulean skies, it doesn't get much better than this.
I might have to use that word again...... sublime!
Well all good things have to come to an end. We had a long day ahead of us, the plan to get to Pheriche by this afternoon.
And we still had to have breakfast!
We descended slowly, stopping for long breaks to savour the moment.
We both agreed that Kala Pattar was definitely a massive highlight of the trek.
We breakfasted at Gorakshep and were back on the trail at 10.30, heading to Lobuche.
We had a short drink stop there, before pushing on down the valley.
Along the way, I deliberately loitered, frequently stopping to turn around and capture those mountain images in my mind's eye, not knowing whether I would ever visit this magical place again.
About an hour from Lobuche, was a series of memorial tombstones, a stark and sombre reminder of those who have lost their lives on Mt. Everest.
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| Leaving Gorakshep |
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| Approaching Lobuche |
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| Looking back towards EBC |
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| Looking forward |
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| Tombstone Memorials |
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| Approaching Dughla |
A steep descent to our lunch stop at Dughla took longer than expected as we encountered some large trekking groups coming up the track. We stopped to chat to a few while they took the opportunity to take a breather. They were part of the last groups to fly into Lukla before the weather closed down the airport for 4 days. Quite a few Aussies and Kiwis, all very excited about the prospect of getting to EBC.
All I said to them was that it could be described in one word - breathtaking!
Lunch was taken at Dughla, with the specials board indicating cappuccinos on the menu.
Yes, there was a Sherpa barista in our midst. Couldn't let this opportunity pass!
And the verdict - pretty good!
There had been talk of trying to get to Pangboche today, but I was feeling fatigued, so the plan was to finish at Pheriche. You can see down the valley all the way from Dughla to Pheriche. with a descent of about 400 metres. I was tired and the 2 hour walk turned into a real trudge. despite the beautiful views of Ama Dablam.
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| Ice melt straight off the terminal face of the Khumbu Glacier |
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| Magnificent Ama Dablam! |
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| Yak Train! |
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| Sherpa Train! |
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| Dry stone walls |
We arrived at Pheriche just after 3pm. Our lodge had an en-suite bathroom, still no shower though....
Only one more day until we get back to Namche - a hot shower sounds blissful!
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| Hotel at Pheriche - not ours! |
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| Afternoon tea time! |
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