Gokyo
The nights tend to be long and sleep doesn't always come easy when you are altitude.
Sleep is disturbed by toilet stops, partly due to a diuretic effect, and we weren't even taking Diamox. Most nights, we had at least 2, sometimes 3 toilet stops.
This was always a little adventure, having to layer on extra clothes, trundle down a corridor, with head torch, toilet paper and sanitizer in hand, ready to negotiate the squat toilet.
Early on the trip, it was the usual story - wake up, wonder for a while whether you really needed to get up, toss and turn, think about it a bit more, contemplate the action plan and then finally decide to just get up and do it!
After a few nights, this all went out the window and when you wake up, you just GO!
Anyway, I tell you this because last night there was a memorable toilet stop. The facilities in the Gokyo lodge were located in a sun room, almost conservatory-like, with large windows on three sides, complete with a couple of chairs.
The room had a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains and lake.
When I got up at about 2 am, this space was illuminated by a full moon's light.
In the cloudless night sky, the mountains were lit up by the moonlight with the snow capped peaks looking like they were decorated with thick white cake frosting. And to top it off, I could even spy Venus - what a magical sight, a magical night,
I have a special affinity for Venus, but that is a another story....
I sat there for a while, transfixed. I really wanted to get dressed and go outside for a better view, but resisted the temptation, and the cold, went back to bed and dreamed of a starry, starry night!
Today was a rest day to spend exploring the Gokyo lakes.
Up for breakfast at 7.30, both of us feeling much better this morning
On the trail at 8.30 in brilliant sunshine, Ram pointed out where we had come from yesterday with a clear view of Renjo La Pass to the west of us.We headed north to Fourth Lake, ascending through a valley with towering mountains on our left hand side and the massive Ngozumpa glacier to the right.
We walked along the edge of the glacier. It is one of the largest glaciers in the region and has it origins from the towering Cho Oyu 8188 metres visible to the north. Breathtaking 360 degree panorama from our viewpoint. This was seriously cool.....
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Renjo La Pass just to the right of centre on the horizon |
We sat by the lake, considering whether to take a dip, deciding against it after checking the icy temperature by fingertip, but did have fun skimming stones along the surface. We lingered here for an hour before a relaxed walk back to Gokyo.
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| Lakpa in the left foreground for perspective |
A few of the locals were out on the hill sides with their baskets collecting the yak pats. Yes, they gather the dung, and after returning to town, flatten them and then leave them to dry out in the sunshine. They are then stockpiled and used for fuel in the stoves. Novel idea for reducing, reusing and recycling.....
After lunch, we went for a walk around the lake and the village, but once again the clouds rolled in obscuring the views.
A few larger trekking groups arrived during the afternoon, swelling the ranks. They were having a rest day tomorrow to acclimitise, so would not be trekking to Cho La Pass on the same day as us. We would still have the trail to ourselves, well nearly....ah, the serenity!
Gokyo was definitely one of the highlights of the trek for me.
Feeling relaxed and savouring the moments!
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| Top centre window was our loft bedroom |
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