The Colca Canyon - Sangalle in one day!

Had a change of itinerary when we realised that we were not seeing any of the canyon, only the river valley.
After some negotiations with the tour guide, and parting with some more dosh, we organised a hike down to the bottom of the canyon and back, in one day.

We were picked up at 6.30am and drove westwards, passing through the small villages of Yanque, Maca and Pinchollo enroute to Cabanaconde. We stopped at the Cruz de Condor (3750m) which is a tourist lookout to view Andean condors. It is not always guaranteed. There are approx 30 in the colony near the lookout. We were there very early, 7.45am, a bit too early for the condors to be up and about. Our guide did point out two juveniles who were resting on a rock ledge, but we saw none in flight.

The road was mostly gravel, and we even had to go through 2 tunnels, one of which was 400 metres long. Completely pitch black as you go through, a little scary.

We arrived in Cabanaconde at 8.15 and met the local guide who was accompanying us on our hike, Edison.

We left the Plaza at 8.30am. The first 30 mins is mainly flat, with only slight undulations. Along this section, we met the Camerons who had spent the previous night staying down at Sangalle, a village at the bottom of the canyon.

We continued on, with the track now becoming very steep, half graded track and very rocky, and half stepped. With my little legs, the steps are always too steep. There were many groups ascending as we continued down. Some were being carried on mules.

The views of the canyon and the river below were breathtaking.

It was hard work on the legs. I think I would use the word relentless to describe it. Luckily we had strong legs and no jelly knees! It took 2 hours, 15 mins to arrive at the canyon floor.

We spent the next two hours relaxing at the oacis. 

Nearly there.....

Basic bungalow accommodation and a restaurant.

We ate our lunch dangling our feet in the cool water of the swimming pool.

We set off at 1.40pm to hike back out and started out at a slow but steady pace. The sun was quite warm and for the first hour and a half it was a real slog, having to stop every 100 metres or so. The clouds then rolled in and it became quite a bit cooler so the exertion didn't feel so bad. It was hard work! We arrived back at the Plaza at 5.00pm, tired but elated that we had done the return hike in one day. 1200m down and 1200 m back up!

We returned to the lodge in darkness. We decided to have a rest day tomorrow as the planned itinerary did not sound inviting. We shared stories with the Camerons, hatched plans for the next day and had an early night.

Arequipa to the Colca

165 km journey travelling around the western perimeter of the Chachani volcano and passing through the National Reserve of Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Parks. Sensational views of the northern sides of El Misti, Chachani and Pichu Pichu.

Ideal for viewing vicunas, alpacas and llamas. Several stops to view the camelids.
Morning tea break at the Stone Forest. Interesting stone formations. Had another drink of the coco mate, which is a potent drink made from leaves and aids in preventing altitude sickness. So far, apart from a little lightheadedness, both Jack and I have been OK.

El Misti left background and Chachani to the right

Spot the camelid

Morning tea - Chachani in the distance

We continued on, climbing steadily through the alpine country, passing through the "tree line" or "cactus line" as our guide called it to the tundra.

A Google Maps car went speeding past us before we could take a photo, what a place to see that!

We stopped at several places to view shepherds and shepherdesses taking care of their flocks of camelids. I bought some gifts from one of them. 

More mountain ranges on the horizon, Hualca Hualca, Ampato and Sabancaya. All are around 6000m high and all snow capped. Ampato is the one where the Ice Maiden, Juanita was found in 1995, and is still an active volcano, with fumes seen emanating from its summit.

Still climbing we came to the high pass, the highest part of journey - Patapampa where the altitude is 4911m. We got out of the car here for photos and also bought some more wares from the locals. We did see one woman collapse from the altitude. She was bundled back into her tour bus promptly to descend to lower ground. We visited the toilets here which were located up on a hill and realised very quickly, how thin the air was. After about 10 metres, our hearts were pounding and we became dizzy. It was the longest trip to the toilet ever. But when we took it slowly, we had no ill effects.

Shepherdess taking care of her flock

National Park

Patapampa Pass

Stones on a cairn to acknowledge Mother Earth, Pachamama

We then descended down towards the Colca River Valley, down roads which rivaled the switchbacks in the French and Italian Alps that we had seen on the Tour de France.

We stopped on one of those switchback bends to have lunch and take in the views of the Colca River Valley. A patchwork of pre Inca terracing withe the Colca River running through and steep mountains on either side. 

We drove into Chivay which is the main town for the region and walked through the local markets.

Colca Valley - Chivay

The local taxi service

The local pedestrian mall

Mosaic hat

Plaza De Armas

Then it was off to our accomodation, Colca Lodge - the most luxurious accomodation in the region, and will probably be the best hotel for this trip. We had decided to splurge in one place, and this was it.

Beautiful lodge, with a great room overlooking the river. Can hear the river flowing at night. Nice soft beds. Buffet breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Superb food. I finally sampled a alpaca steak for dinner - delicious!

Room with a view!

Colca Lodge nestled in the river valley

Colca Lodge

Last Day in Arequipa

Spent the day strolling around the city streets. Lots of shops to look through ranging from cheap souvenir shops to expensive boutiques. Jack was very patient and spent the whole day browsing with me.
After lunch Jack sampled the local helados (icecream) and we sat on the steps of the cathedral to people watch. Dinner at same restaurant as last night. After dinner we walked down to the Plaza to view the cathedral by night.

Plaza De Armas

Impressive cloisters

In Perus, fountains dominate the centre of all of the Plazas

Cathedral by day.

The Cathedral is the only one in Peru which stretches the length of a plaza

All packed up and ready to start the next leg of our adventure. Love Arequipa. Nice clean city with friendly people, felt very safe.
Now feeling 100% and raring to go! Next stop, the Colca Valley and Canyon. Bring it on!

Arequipa

Lingering after-effects of The Curse today. Slept in.

Sightseeing today. Visted the Museo Santury. It houses the famous Ice Mummy - Juanita. A guided tour included a video of how Juanita was found in 1995. There are many exhibits of Inca offerings found with the mummified remains culminating with a display of a mummifed girl, Sarita. Juanita is not on display from November to April, but housed in a nearby university where there is research being done to determine her genealogy, and other things. 

Architecture ranges from.....

Colonial Spanish influenced to.....

Ornate, native styles

Cobblestoned streets in the White City

Spent the afternoon chilling at the hotel, still in delicate recovery mode. 

En-route to dinner, stopped for a look at some of the Artesenias markets near San Francisco church. Methinks there will be a visit there tomorrow to purchase some local wares.

Dinner at a restaurant in a laneway just behind the Cathedral.  Jack, Jenny and Andrew ordered the alpaca steaks!

White-water thrills!

Walked the streets of Arequipa, looking for a new SD card for one of the cameras as memory card already full.

Feeling a little flat today. Decided to take it easy this morning and continue to adjust to the altitude.

Hotel has a rooftop terrace with great views of the three mountains surrounding Arequipa - Chachani, El Misti and Pichu Pichu - all of them around 6000m. Hard to believe that they are 3/4 height of Everest. All are still snow capped. Gorgeous vista.

El Misti

Chachani

Camerons had booked some white water rafting so we decided to tag along. Both of us a little apprehensive as neither of us had rafted before. Picked up from hotel (minus Barb) who had succumbed to the curse of traveller's "you know what".

The Rio Chili runs through the city with its source in the mountains (near Chachani i think). The drive up to the starting point had great views of the fertile valley below with numerous market gardens, being irrigated by the river. Looked like a patchwork quilt. 

I was very nervous whilst listening to the safety briefing, but there was no looking back now. 

Jenny and I carried the paddles and the lads carried the boat down to the river and after a final safety check by Martins, our "El Capitano", we were off. Most of the 6km river run was Class 1-3 rapids, but there was a section of Class 4 rapids towards the end. We followed our instructions diligently and were the best crew out there by far. It was much easier that I anticipated and a lot of fun. We even had the opportunity to stop and jump off one of the rock ledges overlooking the river. It was probably only 7 metres high, but even I had a go, despite my fear of heights. 

One of the kayakers also took photos, so we have a great lasting memory of our first rafting experience. Both Jack and I agreed, it won't be our last!

The safety briefing

Off we go!

Is that a look of fun?

Or fear?

Trying to conquer my fear of heights!

Yay Team!

The exertion of paddling, a belly full of water swallowed after my rock ledge jump, combined with the altitude left me extremely tired afterwards. I had already been feeling lethargic. I warned Jack before dinner that I might not be a good dinner companion. I was feeling very flat and by the end of dinner was nauseous. As soon as we got back to the hotel, it was my turn to experience the Traveller's Curse. Hopefully it would pass quickly.......

Arequipa - let the altitude training begin!

Woke at 5am for a 5.30 pick- up to the airport

Dozed on the plane and then woke just before the descent to look out the window to a magnificent vista of desert mountains and deep canyons with innumerable dry rios. 

Breathtaking view from above

Arequipa (2,380m) is the second largest city in Peru. Located in a beautiful valley at the foot of three snow-capped peaks including "El-Misti" Volcano, it is also known as the White City because it is constructed largely from white volcanic material/rock.

Population of 850,000. Nowhere near as chaotic as Lima. Has a nice relaxed feel to it. 

Afternoon was spent exploring the Santa Catalina Convent, which is really a city within a city. Founded in 1579, less than 40 years after the Spanish arrived in Arequipa, there is a mixture of colonial Spanish and native architectural styles and has been restored several times after sustaining earthquake damage. We had a very informative guide who gave a detailed description of convent life for the nuns. There are still 24 nuns that live at the convent ages ranging from 18 - 100. Stunning views from the rooftops and an impressive collection of paintings in the gallery and the cloistered courtyards, most from local artists, but some from the Cuzco School of Art. Superb example of preservation of cultural heritage.

On the Gringo Trail Amigos!

Another Happy Hour with Pisco sours and Mojitos for me, slightly tipsy!

Then headed to one of Arequipa's best restaurants Chicha's for dinner. Jack had an alpaca hamburger! and Simon had one of Arequipa's specialty dishes - Roccoto Relleno (hot and spicy stuffed peppers).
Altitude noticeable when climbing stairs with some breathlessness and heart pounding, but no other untoward effects as yet. Need to adjust and slow down to about half normal walking pace to compensate.
Only downside for the day - lost my mobile phone somewhere in Lima Airport during check-in, our tour guide is on the look out for it - not very hopeful of recovering it though. Boohoo!